under cabinet ice maker 95 troubleshooting what tells solenoid to open uline
We don't apply ours as a ice maker. Keep the cat food in it. Only know of others who apply it every bit a small freezer.
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Tinstar wrote:
I've got instructions on how to catechumen information technology to a standard $40 - $fifty water ice maker ALTHOUGH I accept non tried information technology withal. I received the instructions from a member on here who converted his.
No thread hijack intended, simply are you talking well-nigh converting the Uline to a $40/50 icemaker? If so, I'd definately be interested in that info. . .
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Hi rrwhistler, from southwest Kansas
One is far more than common than the other.. That i is, of form, the U-line.
And for the most part... You demand not pay too much attention to the specific model,
The only thing that may be unlike is .. My RV unit has a custom base of operations plate,, 3 (I recollect) screws and it comes off and bolts to a new one if needed.
Oh, if the problem turns out to exist a bad solenoid, (220 bucks at Camping world equally I recall) you tin use virtually whatever 120 volt fridge solenoid (Amana 22 bucks from an E-bay dealer and it'due south a amend unit to kick)
Home was where I park it. merely alas the.
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Read in another post it is possible to utilize a diffrent icemaker, withal there was something mentioned about the uline unit of measurement turning at 3 rpm and domicile units turn at 1 rpm. Less ice and there was a concern of adding besides much water but I dont know ? I only ordered the one above... sometimes you just have to bite the bullet.
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So phone call them,( Tech support 800-779-2547 or 414-831-2131 Judy Wustrak ) she will walk yous thru whatever problems yous're facing, they were well-nigh helpful. I had to supercede the "Water Solenoid" and a broken "Door". The parts are all available fifty-fifty dorsum as far every bit my 1991 U-Line Model BI95.
Obviously most of the the parts are pretty generic and have not changed over the years. She referred me to a vendor visitor www.APDepot.com to order the parts I needed. They too were most helpful and prompt with shipping.
Over all it was a lot cheaper than buying a new one and it works just fine.
Roger
1991 - 38" American Eagle - 8.iii Cummin'due south due west/Allison 4spd
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http://cgi.ebay.com/U-Line-Genuine-Uline-Ice-Maker-Icemaker-Kit-UL-402-/230601113260?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b0e5beac
Dennis Codella
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This was from member Nuke-E and I don't know if he still posts on here or not.
He was a new fellow member from NC when he posted it.
Well, I finally got effectually to replacing the icemaker (not the whole freezer unit, merely the icemaker). The pigment on the water ice cube mold had been flaking off, and the filler had a crack that caused water to drip into the bin--turning the cubes into 1 large cake over a few weeks fourth dimension. This mail describes the process (peculiarly the wiring) necessary to retrofit a standard, off-the-shelf ice maker from Lowes into the U-Line freezer. The obvious: turn off/unplug the water ice maker before starting. Remove the plastic encompass on the front of the icemaker, and remove the three screws property the metallic plate in place. Pull information technology forward and you'll see all of the wiring, the timing cam, motor, etc. This plate also holds the bin switch arm; the arm will be loose after you pull the plate out. Five wires are of interest here--two power wires, a ground, one for the water solenoid, and one for the freezer's thermostat. Disconnect/cut these 5 wires--they're the ones that go as a grouping to the back of the chiffonier. Here'south the function that actually took me the longest to figure out: how to physically remove the icemaker. There are a total of five bolts that need to be removed. Two are hard to come across, but pretty easy to figure out if you look at the new icemaker. They hold the icemaker to the side wall of the cabinet. The other 3 are smaller (1/4" socket) and screw in to the icemaker from the lesser. Subsequently all of these are out, it still isn't going to be loose--information technology'll be held to the mounting shelf with a thermal paste/gum. Carefully pry it loose, trying not to bend the shelf any more than than yous have to--the shelf is actually part of the refrigerant loop, so try not to scrape off paint and don't put any holes in it. Once you've separated the icemaker from the shelf, pull information technology straight forward. The probe for the thermostat slides into a metal tube mounted to the ice cube mold; don't bend it whatsoever more than you need to. At present is a proficient time to practice whatever cleaning, if you want to. Electric Fun: U-Line, to their credit, links the compressor to the ice maker, so that it isn't working to cool the cabinet while the mold heater is trying to release new ice cubes. A normal icemaker doesn't have this function, and information technology'll work fine without it. Only the thermostat needs to know what's going on--it'll demand connected to neutral for the compressor to run at all. Otherwise, the wiring is pretty straightforward. My only caution at this point is to make sure that wire colors are consistent (or look at the diagram to friction match functions) with what I describe. If everything matches, here's how to mate the new ice maker: Cabinet --> NEW ICEMAKER I've left the temperature probe for the thermostat loose underneath/beside the new icemaker. Y'all may have to adjust the thermostat to get back to tiptop ice cube production, but it'southward not a big deal. When I get a chance (probably this weekend), I'll add some pictures to this description. If anything isn't clear, permit me know and I'll try to analyze it
Black --> Blackness (line)
Brown --> Yellow (water solenoid)
White (neutral) & Xanthous (thermostat) --> Blue (neutral)
Blood-red (thermostat) --> Zero--cap off
G/Y --> Chiliad/Y (ground)
If anyone tries this before me, I'd appreciate a shout out with how information technology worked out and what brand yous used. OR any other helpful info.
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She also suggested to drill holes along the bottom edge of the trivial plastic box that covers the motor, it allows more than circulation to permit the gears dry out off in betwixt uses.
Be certain when you are washed using it, leave the door ajar so it dries out.
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Source: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24943517/print/true.cfm
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